澳洲Australia property Kango hammer | Sydney
在澳大利亚 Hi Guys, Ive found a property that has mentioned two payments coming up of $1400 to apparently top up the admin fund and 2 have just been paid. Im looking at a financial statement (basically a balance sheet) for the strata and its all a bit Hi all, I currently have a PPOR and 10K cash in the bank which I plan to use as a deposit for a IP early next year. Is it possible for me to place this into my PPOR loan and then redraw the 10K when Im ready for the IP and then claim the int
I was at my favorite toyhouse today....Bunnings, when I saw a small Kango hammer for sale for $600. Considering I paid around $300 in hire for one during my last reno I was wondering if anyone knew what fair retail price was for one of these puppies??
The small ones seem to be better for stuff like removing tiles and knocking holes in concrete. The only ones I have been able to hire have been ginormous and while good for action videos, have left the body shellshocked at the end of a day's work.
We recently (last year) bought a hardly used second hand big one from the trading post for about $900. It had been used for around 7 hours.
It works a treat on almost anything - we are yet to come unstuck
Hope that helps
Not sure about Kango brand specifically, but a small-ish rotary hammer drill will set you back around the $600 mark. A decent small rotary hammer drill will set you back around $400/450 (Makita, Hitachi etc).
I'm not sure if the Kango can act as a drill also or whether it is just a hitting/chiselling type tool, but if it can't drill it might be worth investigating other options that also drill and have a "chisel stop" for chiselling etc. Of course, that may be irrelevant according to what you want to do.
The joule rating of the blows that the hammer delivers and the number of blows per minute (bpm) will give you a reasonable way to compare the "punch" of each product. Don't forget that bigger is not always better, however - you wouldn't want the impact of a full-on jackhammer to try remove tiles off a floor, for example. Horses for courses.
I paid about $88 /day(24 hours) for the hire of a kanga hammer from Kennards. $8 of that was for the chisel.
Did you hire yours over a weekend ?
As Kevmeister says, id go for the combined small jackhammer/drill like a Ramset 342 or later model. Kango also have these.
The Ramset is a beauty (we have about 4) and nothing can stop it for small work. The 342 is an older model but you could get the equivalent newer model. It would be ideal for house renos.
By the way, the smaller Makitas..etc...have a gear driven hammer action which is fast but not real effective, you need a piston type hammer/percussive action which all the Kangos- Ramset-AEG have, its a slower action but much better.
Should cost you between $600 -$800.
Yes, it took me a while to actually realise there was a difference between a "hammer" or "impact" drill and what is typically called a "rotary hammer" or piston-hammer drill.
I remember seeing a brochure for a big Ramset drill and there's a guy with a 4ft long (or so) masonry bit drilling into rock. The bit must have been about 50mm in diameter. I remember thinking that if that thing drilled at anyway near comparable speed to my impact drill, then he must have been standing there for the last month or so... Kind of made me realise that perhaps my "impact" drill was not the same as a "proper" hammer drill.
For the benefit of others ...
An impact drill might do 25,000 blows per minute and a rotary hammer might do 3,000 blows per minute. If the number of blows per minute is unusually high it's probably not a rotary hammer drill.
A typical "impact" drill uses two ribbed plates rubbing together which produces the hammer action (imagine two pieces of corrugated cardboard whose corrugations rub together and you get the idea).
Impact drills (not rotary hammers) are utterly crap for most masonry drilling (when I installed my pergola I had to drill 15 or so 14mm holes 110 mm through fired clay brick, and even with a carbide tipped bit these took close to 1 hour per hole - too an entire weekend). A handyman would find them useful for perhaps little holes (6mm), and not many of them.
But the real bother is that two rubbing plates is obviously a point of serious wear, so these drills effectively wear out their hammer action after a while, often long before the drill itself is worn out.
Youre right there Kevin, not only do they wear out but the hammer action reduces from almost your first use. We only use them for 6mm green plugs in brick/masonry. Maybe the guy with the 4 footer should have been using a looooong 50mm core drill and a water hose.
One more thing, if you're using a decent size bit in your hammer drill (anything over 25mm) make sure you buy one with a clutch.
I've had (and seen plenty) of sprained wrist from bits grabbing
but if you're just chiselling, you wont need it.
It ain’t used every day but when it’s needed nothing comes near it.
1. When removing floor or wall tiles an of on action, on the trigger will result in faster removal. (most times)
2. Cutting the area into strips with a wet saw on difficult to remove areas works well. Setting the cutting depth on the saw just below the bottom of the adhesive works well and sets a finished height. I also use this method to lower steps or raised areas.
3. When using the standard chisels that come with the hammer it is important to keep a good edge on them.
4. If there is a SCUTCHCOMB fitting available for the hammer it will speed up the work no end.