澳洲Australia property Brick or rendered | Sydney


在澳大利亚 Hi all, I currently have a PPOR and 10K cash in the bank which I plan to use as a deposit for a IP early next year. Is it possible for me to place this into my PPOR loan and then redraw the 10K when Im ready for the IP and then claim the int Hi Guys, Ive found a property that has mentioned two payments coming up of $1400 to apparently top up the admin fund and 2 have just been paid. Im looking at a financial statement (basically a balance sheet) for the strata and its all a bit


Hi,

A few years ago I added a brick-veneer extension to my PPOR, the rest of the house was left with its old wheatherboard. I am now thinking about renovating the old part of the house to get access to some extra investment equity.

For the exterior I seem to have two main options:

1) Brick-veneer the old part too. This would gibe me a nice looking brick house but it would require a fair bit of work to put footings in.

2) Put on some cladding on top of the weatherboard and render the cladding and then also render the brick-veneered extension. I have been looking at a pretty nice looking plastic material (about 5 cm thick) that is nailed on top of the existing weatherboard and then rendered. For this option I would not need to put any footing in.

I would appreciate other people's optinion on which option would give me a better value. Also, does it matter if a rendered house is a proper brick house that is rendered or if this kind of plastic kladding is used (the end result would probably look the same).

Thanks,
Lars  

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G'day Lars

You raise a number of points which are basically structural.

In my local council area, any change to the external appearance of the house will require a building permit. Check first.

If you brick veneer the house ie remove weatherboards and clad the timber frame with bricks, you will find this very expensive to do, and will require a full building permit for the works to show engineering, loads etc

How will you protect the outer rows of stumps while excavating for the strip footings? The radial pressure of the stumps would be disturbed, and the whole (perimeter) of the house would have to be lifted and held up while the strip footings were installed.

Yes, I know underpinning involves the same process, but get some quotes before even thinking too much about this.

The bricks would also create a thicker cladding, which means door and window frames would no longer fit or suit. Eaves would be shallower, etc.

If you simply clad the weatherboards, you won't have to worry about footings, but it may require a building permit from the local council to show how any increase of building weight will be dealt with, sub floor ventilation, etc

Cladding is usually fixed to weatherboards by means of fixing battons to the boards first to provide an even plane, and the cement sheet, blue board or whatever is fixed to this.

This means the external surface of the cladding is approx 25mm off from the original profile of the boards. Again, this will affect windows, doors and eaves.

The third option is to remove the weatherboards and fix new cladding direct to the timber frame. This would also give you a chance to check wiring & plumbing and install insulation into the wall cavity if the house is not yet fully inulated. Apart from temperature control, the house will be much quieter.

This process would require removing architraves and trims, but the profiles would remain about the same.

Would you be matching windows & doors, too?

However, if the house is essentially in good condition, you will be going to a lot of trouble and expense for a cosmetic result.

May I suggest you engage a professional colour or design consultant? For about $150 they will suggest colours or textural finishes which will 'blend' the new and old sections of the house together.

Many buildings are a combination of materials. Don't apologise for this, it can be a winning feature if presented appropriately.

Good luck!

Kristine  

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Kristine,

Thanks for your informative answer.

You are right that all work that is required just to put the footings in would be quite complex and expensive. When I added my extension I brick-veneered one of the existing walls and we did have some problems with propping up the building.

Just when we moved in I replaced the plasterboards in all rooms and put insulation in and replaced the wiring at the same time. Would there be any other reasone for taking the weatherboards off?

I have planned to replace all the windows to be aluminium framed and double glazed (same as I have in the extension). Coming from a nordic country I really appreciate the insulation, even though aluminium frames are really bad insulator for both heat and sound (I also have problems with condensation on the frames). I would love some nice western red cedar frames with proper double glazing rather than this compromise, but it was a bit too expensive.

So if I go for a rendered finish for the old part of the house (using cladding), should I also render the newer part that now has a brick finish? Maybe I should follow your advise and engage a consultant, under what section in the Yellow Pages would I find one?

I did have approval for brick-veneer all round way back when I added the extension, I'll have to check with council whether this approval still applies.

Thansks and regards,
Lars  

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Hi Lars

The major paint manufacturers will have colour consultants eg Dulux.

You will find leaflets on this service at major paint outlets eg Bunnings, although specialist paint shops (my local shop does this) may have a consultant come in at regular intervals to provide a free 15 minutes chat and suggestions.

Take photos of the house so they get a good idea for light and shade, as well as construction materials.

When I finally had come to the end of my tether regarding internal colours, I spoke to the consultant, showed her swatches of curtain fabric, sample tiles etc, and she came up with a Dulux colour, Pale Green Tea.

The result is superb. It is a colour I would never have thought of, but draws admiring comments from everyone who sees it.

After all, the consultants are trained if not qualified for the job. No architect would design a building and leave the colours to chance.

Good luck

Kristine  

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Lars

Why don't you try hebel panels. I think they are called power panel by CSR and are 75mm thick. Better insulation than brick since it is aerated concrete. Just gets bolted to the timber framing with an angle at the bottom for support. You gan the render or use granosite or similar. You could probably get the whole house done in a day or 2 with the hebel panels.

Regards

Adrian See  

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Also keep in mind that you will lose a substantial amount of your eaves if you replace weatherboards with bricks. Allowing for the 30 mm cavity then 110mm brick reduces your eaves about 140mm. I have seen ex-Weatherboard houses re-bricked and I always find the appearance odd because of this.

Re: the Hebel, if I was intending to render, why not consider the sheet-based stuff they use on upper-storey construction (blue board is it?). I'm not sure if it is actually resilient enough for ground-floor use, but that would surely be another avenue to investigate.

To be honest, I'm quite surprised you added a brick extension to a weatherboard house. Weatherboards are not everyone's cup of tea, but lots of people like the quaintness of them, so don't underestimate their value in themselves.  

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blue board is fine for ground floor applications  

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Lars,
I you opt for the rendered finish be sure that the surface prep has been done. I would remove the W/boards and fix Blue board.(compressed fibro cement sheet) James hardie has another product on the market called CMX board. Sheets are smaller and attached hirizontally. No triming out between sheets is required(off stud joiners) as with blueboard. Get the rendering done proffesionally. Like brick laying its not rocket science but a skill developed through repitition and experience. Alternatively Homesglen tafe(victoria) offer short courses in rendering taught by proffesional tradesman.  

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