澳洲Australia property Openning Trap Door | Sydney


在澳大利亚 Hi Guys, Ive found a property that has mentioned two payments coming up of $1400 to apparently top up the admin fund and 2 have just been paid. Im looking at a financial statement (basically a balance sheet) for the strata and its all a bit Hi all, I currently have a PPOR and 10K cash in the bank which I plan to use as a deposit for a IP early next year. Is it possible for me to place this into my PPOR loan and then redraw the 10K when Im ready for the IP and then claim the int


Hi All,

I am currently going through "the process" on a townhouse and we've hit a bit of a snag.

Underneath the stairs of this place there is a little room for storage. The room contains a trap door in the floor that allows access underneath the building. The building inspector couldn't get it open, we've tried to get it open and still to no avail. The building inspector reckons it's locked up tight because the house has no cross ventilation.

We have limited access to tools i.e. we have a hammer and a couple of screw drivers, and I'm wondering if any of you have any bright ideas of getting this sucker open.

The trap door has a little metal ring that you use to pull it up and we have killed 1 broom trying to lever it up. Our next stop is to use a tent peg through the ring and try and pull that up. One other idea I had was to use a claw hammer, put the claw through the ring and lever away.

Thinking outside the square, what if we go and buy a few bags of ice from the servo, put some towels on the door and put the ice on top to contract the door and hopefully get it open.

We have a pest inspection on the 15/05/03, and need to have it open by then, all bright ideas welcome.  

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Ice probably won't help, it's not the
heat that has expanded the timber,
it's the damp.

You may have more success if you
tackle it from the other end, take
the hinges off. They're probably
just screwed on, if you're lucky you'll
be able to remove the pins with a
punch.

If all else fails you may have to drill
them out.

good luck
andy  

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Thanks

It's the kind of trap door that doesn't have hinges. It appears that it basically just lifts out.

How do you reckon hammering in tent pegs between the floor and the door would go?  

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Hi Captain,

I'd personally re-visit the site with a crow bar initially & working my way up from there, liasing with the owner along the way (I'd even see if I could cut it open if all else fails, ie. grinder or circular saw & replace the door when finished)... as if you are paying for a pest inspection, you want to get them under the house to ensure there are no hidden problems (ie. leaks, termites, etc...)

Cheers,

MannyB.  

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Thanks guys for your assistance.

I have spoken to my dad (retired carpenter) and he reckons give the following a shot.

i. Give the door a firm couple of taps around the edges with a hammer, use a block of wood to hit the hammer on. This may break the seal on the door

ii. After that use a wood chisel to see if you can get it under the edges

iii. Then give crow-bars a try.

iv. If all else fails......circular saw it open.

Unfortunately I'm working in CBR at the moment so my Girlfriend and her sister are going over tonight to give it a try. I'll let you know what works.

Of course we aern't going to cut anything open without the vendors express permission.

Fun and Games.

TC  

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Hi captain,

keep us informed on how you go & good luck with it all...

Cheers,

MannyB.  

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g'day captain.

Before you go using any weapons of mass production ( circular saws etc ), screw two pieces of wood onto the door, make the top piece wider than the bottom piece, this gives you somewhere to lever using a wrecking bar / crowbar. Use 1 big screw to start with, only leaves one hole to fill. If the screw pulls out, drill out the hole to 10mm wide and use a toggle bolt to secure your two wood pieces.

Use a piece of scrap wood ( 6mm mdf etc ) where the crowbar rests on the floor, stops scratching and denting when you lean on the crowbar

If door is jammed on all sides, then may have to install 4 wood lever points, means 4 screws or toggle bolts, but it's far easier to fill 4 holes than to rebuild the door.

If all fails, a 12lb sledgehammer cures most problems !

rgds,
Richard  

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OK, after a quick read of the problem, I have what may well be a really silly question...

Have you asked the vendor how to open it?

I knew another property that had exactly the same thing (this isn't a townhouse in Carlton, is it??). The vendor had a neat little trick to get it open, and try as anyone else might, they couldn't.

hope this helps, or at least gives you a laugh...

asy :D  

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G'Day all,

I really do admire your patience, I reckon within 15 minutes I would have had the Chainsaw started.

regards  

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what can I say ,,, power tools are your friends :D  

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Originally posted by Jakk
I really do admire your patience, I reckon within 15 minutes I would have had the Chainsaw started.Click to expand...
Gee, I would have thought the baseball bat would have been the first port of call...  

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Open Sesame

Hi All,

The good news is.........it's open!!!! Here is how we did it

Step 1. Gave the door a few good whacks around the edges. We (girlfriend) managed to pick up some broken off pallet from the fruit shop to do this on.

Step 2. Used a barbie-mate and a screw driver either side of the metal ring to lever while another person pulled it up. Now if your laughing at our array of tools, we both work in IT so we're not going to do much damage with a laptop and a palm pilot. Luckily for us I watched MacGuyver as a kid :)

This got it open. Unfortunately there is no Nazi gold or precious art under there.......just lots of cobwebs and some mould......which worries me, but according to our pest guy (who has inserted standard disclaimers i.e. I'm no building inspector but I think....) and our building inspector this is not much of a drama as cobwebs are a good sign and the slight damp keeps away termites. All we need to do is vent it a little better.

Asy, Yes we've asked the vendor if there is a trick to it. In the place we rent now there is a similar deal going on.:)

RichardK - great suggestion. Will keep this in my bag of tricks for future reference.


Thanks Everyone!!!!  

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Originally posted by Jakk
G'Day all,

I really do admire your patience, I reckon within 15 minutes I would have had the Chainsaw started.

regards
Click to expand...
Surely if you pour a couple of stubboirs around the seal the fizz in the beverage will 'pop' the lid, like a big beer-burp...

Or is that a sacreligeous waste of beer? ;)

asy :D  

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asy, asy, asy!!!!!

what a waste of good beer....

the chainsaw is a much better option...

and u still have the beer to enjoy while admiring your handy work with Jakks chainsaw.....


cheers
watto  

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right on the mark watto  

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Originally posted by watto
asy, asy, asy!!!!!

what a waste of good beer....

the chainsaw is a much better option...

and u still have the beer to enjoy while admiring your handy work with Jakks chainsaw.....


cheers
watto
Click to expand...
Here here!

Beer beer!  

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gentlemen gentlemen gentlemen.

We need to learn some finesse. If we use a chainsaw, we'll get sawdust in our beer !

Oh, and termites love damp, dark, still places. That's why they come up under our properties and not come up in the middle of the cricket pitch.

Ventilate, drainage, light. Termites will be less likely to feast upon the timber.


......why not put some termites on the trap door. Much quieter than a chainsaw !  

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WHAT WAS UNDER THE TRAP DOOR??????????????

Now that is the next question!
Some sort of secret dungeon that the previous tenants used for bondage parties?

Or a nice wine cellar?

Cheers
Phantom  

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Hi All,

Who knew that a simple thread about a trap door could spread over 2 pages and discuss topics as diverse as demolition and beer :) (maybe those two do go together).

Well, underneath the trap door was a poorly ventilated subfloor and in the walls (well the expansion joints in the walls only), a small amount of moisture, enough to get picked up by a moisture metre.

We've been advised by our building inspector and pest inspector (who is also a licensed building inspector) to go ahead and purchase, so long as we get the subfloor ventilation fixed ASAP. Since we live in such a litigeous society (I hope that spelling is correct) I reckon they wouldn't be running about making such bold statements unless they were pretty confident as the condition of the house. There are no termites or rot however the environment under the house is condusive to both. Apparently once it is ventialated we will be all good

I have some damp house guys coming sometime this week to do yet another inspection......this one, specifically sub floor and to quote on how much it's going to cost to get fixed via forced ventilation.

In the interim we are going to hire a big mutha of a fan and blow air down there on the weekend.

All up it's cost us around $1200 bucks in inspections, but it's worth it. Not knowing about the sub-floor could have proved devastating both emotionally and financially in the years to come so I reckon it's money well spent.

If anyone is interested I'll put up a post about what the sub floor guys do.  

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