澳洲Australia property External bottom dressing on raised lowset


在澳大利亚 Hi Guys, Ive found a property that has mentioned two payments coming up of $1400 to apparently top up the admin fund and 2 have just been paid. Im looking at a financial statement (basically a balance sheet) for the strata and its all a bit Hi all, I currently have a PPOR and 10K cash in the bank which I plan to use as a deposit for a IP early next year. Is it possible for me to place this into my PPOR loan and then redraw the 10K when Im ready for the IP and then claim the int


Batten infill on lowset raised Qld'r Cottage?

Has anyone got any suggestions for a low cost skirt for a raised lowset cottage? Its approximately 800mm off the ground (concrete stumps with ant caps). Some people have wooden slats, some seem to have concrete shaped bricks.

Whats cost effective and looks good?

What is the actual builders term for the "skirt"?  

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Hi dynamite,

Batterns?  

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Hi,

I am currently battening in under my house, its a 100 year old worker cottage that I moved to a 1/4 acre, put it on adjustable steel stumps at 1.2 meters. (By the way, I should have kept it under 1 meter as I now have to meet council regulations on battons, balustrade height and spacing on the verandah and stairs).
Personally I like the battens (wooden slats) look for cottages and Queenslanders.
The cost and time will depend on what you equipment you can get for free.
I am using hardwood and I am screwing timber to the posts, then putting a top and bottom rail, then nail gunning the battens. Later I will be painting them with an airless gun for a faster job and to get into the edges of the battons which would take forever with a brush (even if painted first).

For concrete posts, you would have to fix the wood to the post with dynabolts, then nail the rails and battens.
I will work out the price for mine and post tomorrow. I have just scanned and uploaded some photos, before and after the move. I have heaps but these are some quick ones.

http://home.orangemail.com.au/~faxdata/move.htm

You can see that the house used to be on concrete posts and battened as above. On the second row pic2 you can just see my start on the right. Sorry its not clearer but it's late!

Chris  

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Thats it battens, all I could think of was Slats ! hahahaha.

Doesnt this increase white ant problems with the slats being close to the ground?

Where can I get the materials, just any old hardware store?  

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Yes this does increase the chances of white ants, you will have to keep the battens a few inches off the ground and same from the bottom of the house.
The one to watch is them getting between the post (concrete or steel) and the screwed on wood. I can't say I have ever had a problem before, I have sprayed with an outdoor surface spray whenever I see ant nests but haven't come across termites yet.

Anyone know of a good spray to buy in bulk for ants/termites/spiders for outdoors?

For timber I always check the "Weekend Shopper" in The Courier Mail (Brisbane) or the trading post but call timber yards to see what they charge. If it's alot of different timber, ie to build a fence, then its straight to the timber yard.
I have seen time and time again, people selling leftover new timber for more then timber yards and second-hand timber (nails/holes,etc) for more than new.
The hardware shops do have the timber but its always more expensive then timber yards but this will depend on if you can get to one anyway. There are several around my area but the cheapest one is 1/2 hr away.  

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I rang a timber yard, they said to use fence paling (75mm), a 1800 high paling is .85c and this will give me two battens. I want to avoid dynabolts onto the concrete stumps as I reckon this may increase chances of exploding stumps. So they said to use joist hangers.

What is a joist hanger, is it the piece of metal that hangs from a joist? If so you would have to construct your battens before hand as there will be a movement due to the steel hangers?  

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The cutting a paling in half is a good idea, very cost effective, make sure you check them as yards like to wrap them in binding and they stick alot of warped ones in (thats when your getting them delivered), if you can pick them up yourself you can check them as you load into a trailer.
I would prefer hardwood instead of pine, its doesn't tend to warp as much and termites take longer to get thru it so you have a good chance of seeing tracks before major damage.

As for Joist Hangers?? These are funny looking metal brackets, in the shape of a U, they are what you hang/insert the joist into, you don't hang them from the joist.
Where do they think you are going to attach these for your rails?
They still have to come off the concrete post.
I think they want you to drill pilot holes thru the joist hanger into the post, then put the plastic insert in the hole, then screw thru the joist hanger into the insert which expands and locks it all together. But this would mean drilling about 4 holes with a 6mm masonry bit per joist hanger? Thats alot of work. I think if this is what they mean I would still go my way.

With stumps exploding, this can happen if the concrete is old and starting to crack/flake, newer stumps will be fine. Your call on the condition of them.  

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chrislaw they are older stumps, and a couple have already cracked (not exploded). Are there any alternatives?

The .85c palings are treated hardwood, thats a new one to me.  

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Hi, if it's starting to crack I wouldn't touch them, you might start a disaster. Big chunks can fall off and then you would have to replace the stump. I don't have a solution for batten from here.

If it's just looks you want, I would favour leaving as is and putting a garden in front with plants that are about a 1/2 to 1 meter.
If your keeping it for a long time, I would call a few restumpers and ask prices for replacing a stump, I don't think its that bad if only a couple of stumps.  

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couldnt I just concrete some steel posts in the ground, under the house in between the current stumps, and then attach the rails to these posts which are sticking out of the ground?  

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To be honest I wouldn't do that. Yes it will work but you are making bodgie work. If/when you sell, the person buying will see this and think:
1. It's rough work.
2. The stumps are obviouse stuffed.
3. If they did this under the house, what have they done to plumbing/electrics/etc inside the house that I can't see.

If you are going to the trouble of digging a hole and concreting a steel post in, why not go that fraction further. Get 2 acro-props, place on either side of crap concrete post, wind up to take the house load, dig beside the post, down about 600mm, unattach the post from your house(angle grind if necessary) and use a tow rope to pull out the old stump. Attach the new one to the house so its floating in mid-air in the same hole and concrete.
Next day lower the acro-props and do again, in 2 weeks you could have replaced 14 posts around the outside for a couple of hours a day.
Make 1 post the height you want, then using a water-level wind up or lower the acro-props for each post before concreting.

NB: This can and did go wrong for me on 6 posts once. They were concreted into an old septic tank, a Frana crane (free from neighbour) using 5 tonne of pressure shattered them instead of coming out. Then I had to get an excavator in to dig them out because new stump had to go where these were. (Excavator was $200).
Acro-props are $5-15 each for a week from hire places.
Maybe try 1 post then see if the time and effort is worth a restumper, because it is alot of work.

Anyone else have suggestions for dynamite?  

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chrislaw...

I have heard that a species of black ants eats termites so maybe not a good idea to kill all?

cheers  

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Hi Miss V,

Now that you mention it, my brother was once told that by a pest inspector, didn't say any particular type, just that they are black ants and they will invade and kill termites.
Anyone else heard of this?  

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Miss V, from memory they are similar looking to the common sugar ants (small ones not the bull or greenies).

Not all the stumps are cracked, just 1 in the area I need to do.

Is there any suggestions to limit the chances of cracking them? ie use short lengthed dynabolts, anything else I can do? perhaps some silicone as well to keep the oxygen out of the cement/iron?  

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hi,

I don't know any way to stop cracking, its usually the reinforcing inside thats rusting which creates the cracking. I think there are products that patch it, try talking to a concreting company and see.
You can put in dynabolts that are only 40mm deep, there isn't alot of weight on the wood your bolting, especially if the rails are cut to fit tight, then the pressure is pushing into the post, also use rails that have a slight bow in them and put the bow upside. Then when it sags alittle over time it will still be pushing into the post, not trying to pull the wood of the post.
There will always be some pressure from the overall weight, on the dynabolts but this is about all I can think of.
Hope it helps.  

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How to fix battens

Hi Dynamite,
just a quick suggestion.

Rather than use dynabolts, you can use liquid nails and red plugs to attatch cleat to the side of the stump. Holes for Red plugs are 5mm in Dia. Be sure to pre drill you timber first with a normal drill bit. Clamp the cleat to the stump flush with the face. Mark each hole on the stump using your hammer drill. remove clamp and cleat and drill deep enough to allow for screw.
On 800mm drill approx 4 holes starting approx 100mm in from each end, and keep them as evenly spaced as you can.
When you fix your rails to these cleats you can also drill for another red plug through the face.
i use red plugs as opposed to green as you can push a red plug throught the timber cleat, but a standard 8g screw wont pull through.
This would be the fastest and cheapest option.
Hope this helps

gecho  

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gecho1

that sounds great, but Im really confused.

what is the technical name for these red plugs and where would I find them in a hardware store?

do you have any diagrams? (its hard to get a full grasp on the forums)

what are you meaning by cleat, just an off cut?

why am I are we clamping the cleat on the stump, then drilling a hole in the concrete stump, then removing the cleat?

Im probably getting mostly confused at the purpose of the cleat and what it looks like.

I presume the plugs are a plastic material?

Thanks very much for your help.  

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Sorry mate,
Don't mean to confuse you.
I'm used to dealing with ppl on the tools and sometimes forget that most of the ppl here don't know that side too well.
Ok, red plugs are a vinyl masonary anchor. You can also get them in a roll which is known as "Spagetti". You insert the cylyndrical vinyl plug into the hole and then screw into it. Go to any hardware and ask for either item and you will be pointed in the right direction.

With the cleat you presumed correctly. I would recomend using 90 x 35 treated pine as a minimum. Cut these into cleats as required. NOTE- Remember to wear a mask when cutting treated pine as it is treated with arsenic as well as other nasty chemicals.

You pre drill these "Cleats" using a five mm drill bit and clamp onto the stud flush with the face. The reason that you clamp the cleat onto the stud is that you will then start drilling through the holes using your hammer drill. once you have marked the stump through the cleat, you can remove the cleat and continue drilling the stump with your hammer drill.
Insert the red plugs and then "glue and screw" the "Cleat" back onto the stump using galvanised screws.

the cleat is there to support your rails.
If you have crumbly stumps a small sized drill bit won't inflict as much dammage as a 12 mm masonary drill bit.


Does this help?
It's a little difficult trying to explain in written form.
Good luck


gecho  

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