在澳大利亚 Hi all, I currently have a PPOR and 10K cash in the bank which I plan to use as a deposit for a IP early next year. Is it possible for me to place this into my PPOR loan and then redraw the 10K when Im ready for the IP and then claim the int Hi Guys, Ive found a property that has mentioned two payments coming up of $1400 to apparently top up the admin fund and 2 have just been paid. Im looking at a financial statement (basically a balance sheet) for the strata and its all a bit
Where would be the best location in general to place a extractor fan ( no light included eg tastic) in a bathroom?
I realise the room shape could determine exact area of placement. I want to get rid of condensation.
I have seen them placed directly over the shower and in others in the centre of the room or high up on wall .
Would it be more effective above the shower cubicle? since that is were the steam is being produced.
I'd place it right above the shower, as that is where most of the steam/condensation is normally generate from... the only fan I'd place in the centre of the room is an IXL-Tastic type of 3-in-1 fan, which comes with a light & heating lamps...
I agree. Fan only - above shower. All in one, where you'd stand under it (usually centre of room).
Our first IP didn't have a fan so it was one of the first things I had installed to prevent mold & damp. We installed it directly over the shower and had it wired into the light switch.
That bathroom has never since had a damp related problem.
Check it the cealing first as this might determine where you can put a fan in the room. There are also HPM small square fans available which are quite good.
i like the idea of wiring fan to light switch.
It may annoy tenant a little but there is no way the could forget to turn it on.
i was tending to the fan above shower myself.
Only thing with wiring to light switch - in the middle of the day (or when it's light outside), I have to turn on a light inside too. Pain in the ^%#$^#*.
Placing above shower has another advantage.
If you don't turn it on (dont like the breeze created, dont like the light on middle of day etc), the fan opening will still allow ventilation anyway (heat rises, steam is hot). Not as effective as turning it on of course, but helps even if they dont!
My thoughts on fans are - wire to the light switch for tenants for the above reasons. It's also a bit cheaper on installation costs. Re the placement - the electrician doing our last installation said not above the shower as that puts too much moisture in the roof cavity. To the side of the shower depending on beams etc was better according to him. Maybe one of our more technically minded forumites could comment on this theory.
Doesnt really matter much where you install the fan. It will suck up all the steam regardless. Ive installed hundreds of em. Get the 300mm fan, dont worry about the 250mm unless your restricted for space or replacing an existing 250mm one.
Heres a tip: Ive seen plenty of people start cutting the hole for the fan in the ceiling and then find they've hit a ceiling joist and cant put the fan where they have begun to cut.
Get in the roof and stick 2 nails through the ceiling between 2 ceiling joists in the area you want the fan. Then put your template between the 2 nails on the underside of the ceiling and you will be between the ceiling joists.
And youre better off putting the fan on a separate switch, cause you might not want the fan on every time you turn the light on, especially in winter if youre not using the shower.
Its pretty easy to pull the new fan switch wire down using the existing light switch wire and install a 2 gang switch plate in place of the single gang.
**Turn the power off first or get an electrician**
I agree with brains on the switch thing.
Sep switch - if switch in plaster - easy as. If it's in the architrave - not so easy (or impossible - depending on builder).
If at all possible, go the sep switch.
And if you're not handy with electricals, get an electrician!
Even if it is an architrave switch its dead easy, but im an electrician and know the tricks to pretty much every cabling challenge. To others, might seem impossible.
**Legally you have to get a sparkie to install or alter all fixed wiring**
How do you guys deal with the times an arch switch has say two lead already, and its one of those ones that is real tight (you know, the type you can barely get the switch 2cm from the wall....)
Just so I know next time....
I'd cheat and move it to the plaster.
That was my instruction when I built my house - all switches in plaster - easier for me
whenever I get a arch mounted switch and the twin wire is jammed in the stud ( too small a hole ), I've removed the wire ( push it back it wall cavity ) and have drilled out the hole for the wire, and fished new wire through, esp. if the wire is not modern ( black rubber from 40 years ago - yuk ! )
I also prefer to install a 3 in 1 light, if going to the hassle of installing a fan, may as well do it properly, who likes standing in a cold breeze when wet & naked ? ( please, nobody answer this, this means you geoffw ! )
and, I always want my light switches on plaster/gyprock, but not when it means filling the hole left in the architrave unless I'm replacing the architraves, which usually means I'm also replacing the skirting boards, after I've sanded and polished the floor boards, after removing the carpet, because we changed all the rooms around, and replaced the kitchen and bathroom. etc etc etc. depends on how fussy you are on all switches being located same way.
3in1 light adds good value to property, appeal for resale and tenants like the inclusion. All the mod-cons !
Originally posted by RichardKUm, who me?
I also prefer to install a 3 in 1 light, if going to the hassle of installing a fan, may as well do it properly, who likes standing in a cold breeze when wet & naked ? ( please, nobody answer this, this means you geoffw ! )Click to expand...
I do agree.
If you want the tenant to use the fan, it must not be uncomfortable to do so.
The same principal applies to many things in an IP.
I've had landlords say things like, "They're only tenants. They don't need a nice kitchen" (or carpet or whatever).
And I've had an agent say that I treat my tenants well by providing good fittings in a house.
But those new fittings in the house (cost $6K) get me $30 pw extra. 25% pa ROI. Win win.
MAKING THE HOLE BIGGER FOR A 3RD ARCH. SWITCH:
First is to attach a wire to the one or two switch existing switch wires (after taking the switch off) and pushing them into the wall cavity with your srewdriver. Then you can open the hole up as much as you want with a drill and/or spade bit to create space for a 2nd or 3rd switch on the architrave.
Then when the hole is big enough you pull your switch wires back through with the draw wire you attached.
If this wont work, get a wide chisel and a block of wood and take the whole architave off and you can cut and drill as much as you like under the architrave. Its easier to open the hole up on the architrave when its off anyway.
GETTING THE NEW SWITCH WIRE DOWN:
Then to get the new switch wire down you do what electricians call a double pull... You attach the new switch wire and a draw wire at the architrave to the existing switch wires (twist all the copper together and tape it up).
Then get in the roof and pull the existing switch wires up untill your join comes through the top plate.
Then cut your new switch wire off the join (tie it to a truss) and go back down and pull it all back down using the draw wire you attached.
So now you have your existing switch wires and the new one at the architarve and the hole big enough for an extra switch and you have the new switch wire in the roof to take to the fan.
Architrave switches arent installed in new homes these days unless someone specifically asks for them. (gotta be crazy) Wall plates are heaps quicker and easier.